CHAMONIX MOUNTAINEERING CLASSICS
Chamonix Mountain Guides
Les Aiguilles Rock Course: 3-5 days duration
Discover the golden granite of Chamonix's finest multi-pitch rock
climbs. Chamonix is known for its excellent, sheer walls of protogine
granite soaring for almost 4000 unbroken feet. In a 3 -7 day long
course, Antoine Savelli guides climbers through a series of climbs
designed to develop confidence and endurance on longer and more
challenging alpine ascents using unique training methodologies to
enhance your opportunities to succeed and surpass your expectations.
The region's classics range from 6 to 48 pitches of grades IV, V
and VI (American grades 5.8 - 5.10) . Some of the classics include:
AIGUILLE DU MIDI
This face of crimson granite is a perfect initiation into the
vertical world of Chamonix. We begin with a ride on the world's
highest tram, the Aiguille du Midi, to 3800 meters and descend
along a dramatic arete to the base of the south face on to the
Rebuffat route, a nine pitch, 5.9 gem topping at the summit
of a razor sharp needle. Climbers need to be in good physical
form and have had some technical climbing experience.
Route: Aiguille Du Midi, Rébuffat
Dates: June 20-22; July 4-6 & 25-27; Aug. 8-10 & 15-17
AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE
An 18 pitch 5.9 classic, the Vaucher route is a magical, natural
line culminating at 3400 meters. The famous Lepiney Crack, first
climbed in the 20's, is the challenging finish to one of Chamonix's
most scenic Aiguilles overlooking Mt. Blanc, the Dru, the Grepon
and La Blaitiere. This tour is an excellent introduction for
Route: Aiguille Du Peigne, Vaucher or Maillon Manquant
Level: advanced to expert
Dates: July 4-6; Aug. 18-20; Sep. 5-7
This magical spire of 38 pitches offers spectacular crack climbing.
The famous American Direct route is accessed from the Grand
Montets tram and a glacier approach. Climbers should be prepared
for a long grade VI and be in top physical form and comfortable
on 5.10 to 5.11 rock climbs. The length of the climb and its
altitude of almost 4000 meters increases its difficulty substantially.
Antoine's fastest on sight 5 1/2 solo of the American Direct
in 1991 still stands today!
Route: Aiguille Du Dru, American Direct
Dates: July 25-29
July - August
ALPINE 4,000 METER PEAKS
If your aspirations are to summit Europe's grandest, tall peaks,
Antoine Savelli can guide you along the most spectacular, difficult
technical routes. A typical week might include two days of snow
and rock techniques, and instruction in glacial travel and rope
management and the opportunity to ascend two or three summits,
depending on conditions. Some of the Alp's most coveted alpine
goals can be reached from Chamonix, Zermatt, and Grindelwald.
The most famous peaks, but certainly not the entire list (our
favorites include an array of lesser known peaks), include:
Western Europe's highest peak is Mont Blanc, at 4807 meters
a goal of climbers worldwide. The Aiguilles de Peuterey Integral
route is 120 pitches of semi-technical (5.4- 5.8 rock with mixed
climbing on top) climbing. This is the wild side of Mt. Blanc.
Antoine's unique confidence building speed climbing techniques
helps you surpass your expectations for such an endeavor.
Route: Mont-Blanc Integral Peuterey Ridge
Duration: 5 day
Dates: Aug. 8-12
The north face of the Matterhorn is a mixed climb on an ultra
classic route that requires the highest degree of proficiency
on both snow and rock. The summit ridge is one of the most exposed
in the Alps and overlooks the 4000 foot north face as well as
a ring of impressive 4000 meter peaks. Antoine can make this
undertaking a part of your reality if excellence and commitment
is your cup of tea.
Route: Matterhorn North Face
Duration: 5 day
Dates: Sep. 19-23
Eiger Nordwand is one of the most infamous climbs in the Alps.
Its 6,000 foot face requires all the techniques of alpinism,
stamina and endurance, and excellent freeze conditions. The
north face of all the north faces in the Alps! Not for the faint
hearted! An extreme challenge worthy of contemplation for the
very best. Antoine screens his clients to the upmost, and the
tiniest detail is always exhausted to bring about every chance
for a 'Nordwand' summit bid.
Route: Eiger North Face
Duration: 5 day
The most coveted technical north face overlooking the Mer du
Glace outside of Chamonix offers 48 pitches of pure delight
on a spur of granite with mixed climbing on the top. A must
for preparation for technical Himalayan peaks. Antoine's epic
on sight 1991 7 hour solo of the Walker Spur still stands as
the world's fastest. Photo featured to the right.
Route: Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur
Duration: 5 day
Dates: July 18-22
What is included: all courses include rentals (when needed), local transportation (lifts, ground transportation), meals in huts and hut sleep overs as needed as well as community equipment. Otherwise, you are responsible for your own lodging as well as meals outside course events in the various alpine resorts, or if day trips do not require hut sleep overs, lifts, and hut meals. A comprehensive equipment list tailored to your course will be provided as soon as you make your reservation.
Deposit: a 50% deposit is required 60 days prior to course initiation to insure that your space is secured. Balance: is due 30 days prior to course initiation. Last minute reservations: are paid in full with a 10% augmentation fee on top of guide fees when space is available. No exceptions allowed.
Cancellation policy: refunds are possible up to 30 days prior to course initiation. Otherwise no refunds are possible. Travel insurance is highly recommended for that purpose. If Chamonix Alpine Adventures cancels a course due to bad conditions, or participant unfit to continue, no refunds are possible. Credit to a future course may be considered under exceptional circumstances.